Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage: The Complete Henro Walking Guide

There is a circuit in Japan where the destination is not a city, a mountain, or a coast. The destination is yourself.

The Shikoku Henro is a 1,200-kilometer pilgrimage around the island of Shikoku, connecting 88 Buddhist temples associated with the monk Kukai (known posthumously as Kobo Daishi). Every year, approximately 150,000 pilgrims set out on this route -- on foot, by bicycle, by bus, or by car -- making it one of the most active pilgrimage traditions in the world (Source: Shikoku Tourism Bureau). The trail absorbs walkers quickly. Phones get forgotten. The sound of prayer bells from a distance becomes the dominant rhythm.

This guide covers everything you need to plan your own henro, whether you intend to walk the full circuit or complete a section over a long weekend.

What Is the Shikoku Henro?

The henro (pilgrimage) traces a loop around all four prefectures of Shikoku, Japan's fourth-largest island. The 88 temples (reijo) belong to the Shingon Buddhist tradition founded by Kukai in the 9th century. Each temple has a numbered designation, and pilgrims traditionally visit them in order, starting with Temple 1 (Ryozen-ji) in Tokushima Prefecture and ending with Temple 88 (Okuboji) in Kagawa Prefecture.

Key facts at a glance:

• Total distance: approximately 1,200 km on foot
• Number of temples: 88 official, plus 20 "bangai" (unnumbered bonus temples)
• Average walking duration: 30 to 45 days for the full circuit
• Annual pilgrims: roughly 150,000, with international walker numbers rising 34% in 2025 (Source: Henro.org)
• Religious affiliation: Shingon Buddhism, though pilgrims of all faiths and none are welcome
• UNESCO status: not yet listed, though advocacy efforts are ongoing

The henro is not a race. Some walkers complete it in 30 days. Others return year after year, completing a few temples at a time. Both approaches are considered valid within the tradition.

History of the Shikoku Pilgrimage

The pilgrimage's origins are inseparable from the life of Kukai (774-835), one of the most influential figures in Japanese religious history. Born in Zentsu-ji, Kagawa Prefecture -- on Shikoku itself -- Kukai traveled to China, studied esoteric Buddhism, and returned to found the Shingon school. He later established a monastic complex on Mount Koya (Koyasan) in present-day Wakayama Prefecture. Legend holds that Kukai trained at numerous sites across Shikoku, and the 88-temple circuit traces those locations.

The Four Prefectures and Their Spiritual Themes

The pilgrimage divides Shikoku into four spiritual provinces (dojo), each associated with a stage of Buddhist awakening. Understanding these themes enriches the walk -- you begin to notice how the landscape mirrors the inner journey.

Tokushima Prefecture -- Hosshin no Dojo (Place of Awakening)

• Temples: 1 through 23
• Distance: approximately 230 km
• Terrain: river valleys, coastal paths, mountain passes
• Character: the beginning; finding your rhythm, confronting doubt

Tokushima is where most pilgrims start, and where most learn the fundamental lesson of the henro: slow down. The terrain is relatively gentle compared to what comes later, but the distances between temples can be deceptive. Temple 12 (Shosan-ji) sits at 800 meters elevation and offers the first real climbing test. The Yoshino River valley provides long, flat stretches where you walk past rice paddies and farmhouses. Locals wave. Some leave out snacks and drinks -- a tradition called osettai (alms-giving to pilgrims) that has continued for centuries.

Kochi Prefecture -- Shugyo no Dojo (Place of Discipline)

• Temples: 24 through 39
• Distance: approximately 400 km (the longest stretch)
• Terrain: rugged coastline, Cape Ashizumi, dense forest
• Character: endurance testing, solitude, confronting physical limits

Kochi is where the henro earns its reputation. The distances between temples stretch dramatically -- the gap between Temple 23 and Temple 24 alone is about 75 km, the longest inter-temple distance on the entire circuit. You walk along the Pacific coast, past Cape Muroto and Cape Ashizumi, exposed to wind and sun. The population thins. Convenience stores vanish. This is the section that separates walkers who finish from those who do not. It is also, for many, the most beautiful.

Ehime Prefecture -- Bodai no Dojo (Place of Enlightenment)

• Temples: 40 through 65
• Distance: approximately 380 km
• Terrain: inland mountains, citrus orchards, Matsuyama city
• Character: deepening practice, accumulating insight, warmth

Ehime translates as "beautiful princess," and the prefecture lives up to its name. The terrain softens after Kochi's austerity. Citrus groves line the hillsides. Matsuyama, Shikoku's largest city, provides a welcome respite -- and Dogo Onsen, one of Japan's oldest hot spring bathhouses, offers a restorative soak. If you are interested in Japan's broader onsen culture, our guide to hidden onsen across Japan covers lesser-known thermal springs worth the detour. Temple 45 (Iwaya-ji) is carved into a cliff face and remains one of the most dramatic temple settings on the circuit.

Kagawa Prefecture -- Nehan no Dojo (Place of Nirvana)

• Temples: 66 through 88
• Distance: approximately 190 km
• Terrain: gentle hills, Sanuki plain, Seto Inland Sea views
• Character: completion, gratitude, letting go

Kagawa is the shortest stretch and the most emotionally charged. The temples cluster closer together, the walking grows easier, and yet many pilgrims describe a paradoxical reluctance to finish. Temple 75 (Zentsu-ji) is Kukai's birthplace -- walking into the courtyard where the founder of the tradition was born produces a layered sense of arrival that is difficult to explain to anyone who has not spent weeks on the trail. Temple 88 (Okuboji) sits in a mountain valley. When you stamp your book for the last time, there is no fanfare. Just the sound of wind through cedars.

Walking vs Bus vs Cycling: Choosing Your Method

Walking (Aruki Henro)

• Duration: 30 to 45 days
• Daily distance: 20 to 35 km
• Cost: approximately 500,000 to 700,000 yen for the full circuit (Source: Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide)
• Best for: those seeking the traditional experience, physical challenge, and deep immersion

Walking is the original and most respected method. You feel every kilometer. You learn to read your body. And you receive the most osettai -- local gifts of food, drink, and sometimes shelter -- because walking pilgrims visibly embody the effort of the tradition.

Bus Tour (Bus Henro)

• Duration: 8 to 12 days (organized tours), or self-paced with public transport
• Cost: organized tours range from 150,000 to 300,000 yen
• Best for: those with limited time, elderly pilgrims, or those who want the spiritual experience without the physical demands

Bus tours are the most common method among Japanese pilgrims over 60. An organized tour handles all logistics -- you arrive, pray, stamp your book, and reboard. The trade-off is obvious: convenience at the cost of immersion.

Cycling (Jitensha Henro)

• Duration: 10 to 14 days
• Daily distance: 80 to 120 km
• Cost: approximately 300,000 to 500,000 yen (including bicycle rental or transport)
• Best for: fit travelers who want a faster pace but still value self-propelled effort

Cycling the henro has grown in popularity, particularly among international visitors. The coastal roads in Kochi are magnificent on two wheels. Mountain temples require dismounting and climbing on foot -- there is no shortcut.

Essential Gear: The Henro Outfit

Traditional henro attire is not cosplay. Each item carries symbolic meaning, and wearing even a few pieces signals to locals that you are a pilgrim, which often triggers osettai (gifts) and practical help.

• Hakui (white vest or jacket): symbolizes purity and the willingness to die on the path -- a reminder of the pilgrimage's origins as a serious spiritual undertaking
• Sugegasa (sedge hat): the conical straw hat inscribed with the phrase "dogyoninin" (two people traveling together), signifying that Kukai walks with every pilgrim
• Kongozue (walking stick): represents Kukai himself and is treated with reverence -- wash the tip each evening, never lean it against a wall carelessly, and never bring it into a bathroom
• Wagesa (stole): a cloth worn around the neck, indicating the pilgrim's commitment
• Osamefuda (name slips): small paper cards with your name and wish, deposited at each temple
• Nokyo-cho (stamp book): the official book where each temple's priest inscribes a calligraphic seal (300 yen per stamp as of 2025)
• Juzu (prayer beads): used during recitation of the Heart Sutra at each temple

Practical additions beyond tradition:

• Quality rain gear (Shikoku receives significant rainfall, especially in Kochi)
• Blister care kit (Compeed patches, needle, antiseptic)
• Headlamp for early morning or late arrivals
• Compact first aid supplies
• Portable phone charger (cell reception can be spotty in Kochi's rural stretches)

Accommodation Along the Trail

One of the most practical concerns for any pilgrim is where to sleep each night. The henro offers a broader range of accommodation than most long-distance trails.

Shukubo (Temple Lodging)

• Cost: 6,000 to 8,500 yen per night, typically including two vegetarian meals
• Availability: roughly half of the 88 temples offer shukubo
• Experience: wake to the sound of morning chanting, join meditation sessions, eat shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine)
• Booking: increasingly necessary -- call or email ahead, especially during peak season (March to May)

Temple lodging is the most spiritually integrated accommodation option. You sleep on tatami, eat what the monks eat, and wake before dawn for morning prayers. For a deeper look at temple stays and meditation experiences across Japan, see our meditation retreat guide.

Tsuyado (Pilgrim Shelters)

• Cost: free
• Availability: scattered along the route, especially in rural areas
• Facilities: basic shelter, sometimes with a roof and bench -- no bedding, heating, or meals
• Best for: experienced hikers comfortable with sleeping bags and self-sufficiency

Tsuyado were originally Buddhist halls repurposed to shelter pilgrims in need. Some are well-maintained, others are barely standing. Availability has tightened -- international walker numbers rose 34% in 2025, and popular free shelters now fill up weeks in advance during spring (Source: Henro.org).

Minshuku (Family Guesthouses)

• Cost: 5,500 to 7,500 yen per night with two meals
• Experience: Japanese-style rooms with futon, shared bathrooms, home-cooked meals
• Advantage: personal interaction with local hosts who often have decades of experience welcoming pilgrims

Business Hotels

• Cost: 4,000 to 8,000 yen per night (room only)
• Availability: in cities and larger towns (Tokushima, Kochi, Matsuyama, Takamatsu)
• Advantage: privacy, reliable Wi-Fi, laundry facilities
• Disadvantage: no pilgrim community, no meals included

Zenkonyado (Free Pilgrim Lodging)

• Cost: free (donations appreciated)
• Availability: offered by generous locals who open their homes or outbuildings to pilgrims
• Etiquette: always express gratitude, leave the space cleaner than you found it, and consider leaving a small osettai (gift) in return

A practical mix for most walkers: alternate between minshuku on hard days, temple lodging at key temples, and business hotels when you need laundry and rest. Budget roughly 5,000 yen per night on average if using a combination (Source: Shikoku Japan 88).

Budget Planning

Walking Pilgrimage (30-45 Days)

• Accommodation: 150,000 to 225,000 yen (averaging 5,000 yen/night)
• Food: 90,000 to 135,000 yen (averaging 3,000 yen/day)
• Temple stamps: 26,400 yen (300 yen x 88 temples)
• Gear (white outfit, hat, stick, book): 10,000 to 15,000 yen
• Transport to/from Shikoku: 15,000 to 40,000 yen (depending on origin)
• Miscellaneous (laundry, supplies, emergencies): 30,000 to 50,000 yen
• Total estimate: 320,000 to 490,000 yen (approximately $2,100 to $3,300 USD at 150 yen/dollar)

Budget-Conscious Approach

Pilgrims who camp, use tsuyado and zenkonyado, and cook simple meals can reduce accommodation costs significantly. Some walkers have completed the circuit on less than 200,000 yen total, though this requires experience with outdoor camping and a willingness to accept less comfortable conditions.

Bus Tour

• Organized tour: 150,000 to 300,000 yen (all-inclusive, 8-12 days)
• Self-guided with public transport: highly variable, approximately 200,000 to 350,000 yen

Best Season to Walk

• Spring (March to May): the most popular season. Cherry blossoms in late March and April. Mild temperatures (15 to 22 degrees Celsius). Accommodation books up fast -- reserve two weeks ahead
• Autumn (October to November): second most popular. Fall foliage, comfortable walking temperatures (12 to 20 degrees Celsius). Less crowded than spring
• Summer (June to September): challenging. Rainy season (tsuyu) hits in June and July with heavy downpours. August brings extreme heat and humidity. Not recommended for first-timers
• Winter (December to February): quiet and cold. Mountain passes may be icy. Some accommodation closes. Rewarding for experienced walkers who prefer solitude

The ideal window for a first-time walking pilgrimage is mid-March through May or October through mid-November.

How to Plan Your Shikoku Henro: Step by Step

Temple Etiquette: What Every Pilgrim Should Know

Proper etiquette at each temple is not about rigid formality -- it demonstrates respect for a tradition that has welcomed strangers for over a millennium.

At the temple gate (sanmon):

• Bow once before entering
• Step over the threshold, not on it

At the purification basin (chozuya):

• Wash left hand, then right hand, then rinse your mouth (using your left hand as a cup)
• Do not drink directly from the ladle

At the main hall (hondo) and Daishi hall (daishido):

• Light one stick of incense and one candle (do not light from another pilgrim's flame)
• Place a name slip (osamefuda) in the designated box
• Ring the bell (if available) before praying, not after
• Recite the Heart Sutra if you know it; quiet contemplation is equally accepted

At the stamp office (nokyosho):

• Present your stamp book open to the correct page
• Pay 300 yen per stamp (have exact change ready)
• Do not rush the calligrapher -- the inscription is considered a form of prayer

General conduct:

• Keep your walking stick out of bathrooms (it represents Kukai)
• Accept osettai (gifts from locals) with gratitude -- refusing is considered impolite
• When meeting other pilgrims, the greeting is "otsukaresama desu" or simply a bow

Section Walking: Completing the Henro Over Multiple Trips

Not everyone has 45 consecutive days. Section walking -- completing the pilgrimage across multiple trips over months or years -- is a fully legitimate approach within the tradition.

Popular section options:

• Tokushima section (Temples 1-23, approximately 230 km, 7-10 days): the classic introduction
• Kochi coastal walk (Temples 24-39, approximately 400 km, 12-15 days): the endurance test
• Ehime highlights (Temples 40-65, approximately 380 km, 10-14 days): includes Dogo Onsen and Matsuyama
• Kagawa completion (Temples 66-88, approximately 190 km, 5-7 days): the emotional finish

Section walkers should stamp their book at each temple and keep it between trips. There is no time limit for completing the circuit. Some pilgrims take decades.

Connecting the Henro to Japan's Broader Pilgrimage Tradition

The Shikoku Henro exists within a rich web of Japanese pilgrimage routes. If you complete the henro and find yourself drawn to more trail walking, consider these connections:

• Kumano Kodo: the only other major pilgrimage trail in the world to share a dual-pilgrim recognition with the Camino de Santiago. Our Kumano Kodo pilgrim trail guide covers all four routes, difficulty levels, and logistics
• Koyasan: Kukai's mountain monastery, the traditional endpoint of the Shikoku Henro, also serves as the starting point for the Kumano Kodo's Kohechi route
• Meditation retreats: many temples along the henro offer meditation sessions, but for dedicated retreat experiences, our meditation retreat guide covers Zen temple stays, Vipassana centers, and forest bathing programs across Japan

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Thoughts

The Shikoku Henro does not promise enlightenment. It promises 1,200 kilometers of putting one foot in front of the other. The enlightenment, if it comes, arrives in the spaces between temples -- in a stranger's offered tangerine, in the fog lifting off a mountain pass, in the slow realization that you are capable of more than you believed.

If the henro calls to you, start planning. Pick a season, buy a stamp book, and take the first step from Temple 1. The trail has been waiting for 1,200 years. It can wait a little longer -- but you might not want to.